Project Pajero
Where are we now!
Day 38 to 43 4 – 9 October 2009
We left T&C motoring from the Bungle Bungles towards Halls Creek. In Halls Creek they took time to check out the unusual rock formation known as China Wall, an outcrop of quartz rock that runs along a ridge for several hundred metres and looks like a man made wall of white stone. They also dropped into Caroline Pool which, being late in the dry season, was reduced to a muddy waterhole, but it is still a nice setting amongst the Spinifex covered red rock so typical of the Kimberley region.
Following the sealed Great Northern Hwy to the west by the end of the day they reached a marked lookout on the side of the road, it’s a few hundred metres of red gravel road leading to a view across the Kimberley horizon and with a couple of other travellers they made camp in their van for the night.
Next day they arrived in Fitzroy River and after visiting the old Fitzroy crossing and noting that the new supermarket had recently been burnt down and therefore having to do their shopping along with the locals from a temporary tent supermarket, they took the road out to Geikie Gorge. Sadly boat tours now only run at 8 am and 3pm and as the time was 10 am they were not inclined to sit around in the 36 degree heat all day. Fortunately there was a walk they could take along the river and still managed to see the unusual white and black rock synonymous with Geikie Gorge. It was a long and hot walk in the middle of the day.
After this they headed up the gravel road towards Windjana gorge still with the caravan in tow. Tony said this was by far the roughest road they had driven with bad corrugations and rocky sections. The road passes through landscape dotted with giant Boab trees, and if you can ignore the road conditions, the drive is spectacular. Stopping at tunnel Creek and arming themselves with torches they scrambled over the car size rocks at the entrance to Tunnel Creek and then waded in the relatively shallow knee deep water for 50 metres through the dark tunnel until they emerged on the other side of the mountain range, this is where the native bushranger, Pigeon, once hid from the Police.
Continuing on the horror road thinking their van would shake to pieces, crossing many dry creeks and some still with water around side step deep they reached Windjana gorge. Here they camped for $10 per person per night with hot showers. During the next morning they followed the walking track towards the imposing black mountain range of the King Leopold ranges (an old reef a few years ago). Along the sandy waters edge of the river they counted over 27 fresh water crocs, no swimming here. T&C actually walked right to the end of the gorge, about 3 kilometres.
By arrangement with the Ranger at the Park camp ground they left their caravan for a few days whilst they took the Pajero and their OZTENT for a trip into the true Kimberley wonderland. Reaching the Gibb River road they found it to be in much better condition and enjoyed the view from the lookout as they headed east towards Bell Gorge turn off. They went into Bell Gorge and took the long walk down to the gorge where there was still water going over the falls. They had a swim here and explored the lower falls on foot also. Bell gorge is one of the nicest Gorges in the Kimberley.
Rather than camp at Silent Grove, the camp ground that serves the gorge, they continued east to the resupply point known as Imintji. To their surprise they only sold diesel fuel and no unleaded. This meant they had to continue up the Gibb River road to Mt Barnett where they could get unleaded at the pricey sum of $1.94 per litre.
As a result they headed into Manning gorge camp ground for the night. Next morning they took the rough walk up the gorge to the swimming hole which they had mostly to themselves despite the fact there were about a dozen other campers in the camp ground, the most they had seen since leaving Kununurra.
After the long hot walk back to camp and packing away the OZTENT which Carol tells me she is getting to like very much, they thought a cooling shower would be good before heading off, alas, no water came out of the shower heads! Reporting this to the roadhouse back on the highway at Mt Barnett, it was met with, “Oh that would be right, the caretaker hasn’t turned on the pump this morning” Things are more laidback in the Kimberley.
They trekked west again on the Gibb River road but this time took the turn off to the Mornington Wilderness camp. It is worth noting that 200 metres from the Gibb River road there is a two way radio set up on the side of the road and all visitors to the Wilderness Camp are asked to call on the radio and advise of their imminent arrival. Well almost imminent, as it takes 2-3 hours to drive the rough outback track past giant boabs and over dry creeks before reaching the Wilderness Camp. There is an entry fee of $20 per vehicle plus camping fee of $15 per person per night but there are hot showers available in the camp. There are also $200 per night Safari tents for those that have way too much money!
On the next day they took the drive through the spectacular countryside, true Kimberley colours up here, to Dimond Gorge where the Fitzroy river has cut through the orange and ochre coloured rock, a truly spectacular location, more swimming for T&C. Then it was back to camp and eventually back to the Gibb river road and Windjana Gorge to collect the caravan.
Safely back on the Gibb River road they continued west to the bustling small town of Derby and made camp at the Kimberley Entrance Caravan Park for $29 for a powered site after refuelling at a more respectable $1.54 for unleaded and $1.49 for diesel (remember those days when Diesel was cheaper than unleaded?). It was with some disappointment that they headed out to the long jetty only to find the fish and chip shop has closed it’s doors already for this season, so they walked out along the jetty to watch the sunset over the King Sound, which is part of the Indian Ocean.
This morning (9 October) it was 26 degrees and 76% humidity at 6 am, leaving Derby they drive down to beautiful Broome and made camp at the Cable Beach Caravan Park at $35 per night for a powered site. This Park has over 400 sites, and is chock a block full in July/August, now they had their choice of sites under shady trees. Tony walked across the road to watch the sunset off Cable Beach, a stunning vista every evening. It is worth noting that Western Australia is 3 hours behind Sydney now that us east coasters have gone onto daylight saving.
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